I’d never been surfing before, hell, I’d only swam in the ocean less than 10 times in my life. So I didn’t really expect myself to learn anytime soon. while on the Wonderland trail, Andrew, whom had just got back from Hawaii just went on and on about it. At least 3 times a day he’d bring it up and rave about the breaks, the boards, and all people he’s surfed with. It was a little bit of an obsession, and I was instantly drawn to the passion he had for it. It only took a few days into the trip to decide we’d head out to find some surf as soon as we got off the trail.
Several days later, we were headed down to Oregon to do just that. All the friends - Andrew, Whitney, Mason, Adam, and I met in Pacific city. They rolled up in Andrews Prius, loaded to the brim with wetsuits, surfboards, and happy folks. I think the stoke was at 11 at least.
Once wetsuit rentals were squared away, campsites were booked, and copious coffee was drank, we set out to do the damn thing. The first night out it was just Andrew surfing. He just couldn’t wait to get in the water, and I could t wait to see what it was about. I watched and learned, and shot the whole thing. That was a fun experience too, I had never shot surfing, and so trying something new in that way was refreshing as well. The night finished up around the fire, everyone stoked but sleepy.
the next morning we took things slow. Plenty of coffee was drank (of course), and we filled up on hash browns, egg scramble, and avocado. Eventually we loaded up the truck and headed to the beach. After getting suited up and picking a board to ride, Andrew, Adam, and I set out. We ran into the water and paddles out.
I remember the water being cold and dark, but the wetsuit put a good layer between myself and the watery world. The board was fast, which was good cause my arms are weak when it comes to this stuff. Once I was out, we hung out for a bit just enjoying the sights and waiting for some waves. Andrew caught a few and ripped around, and I ended up riding a few, even though I didn’t make it to standing the first day. The whole squad came out surfing, we took a little break to go skating, then went back to the waves.
Being out on the water was an incredible experience. There’s so much peace and calm out there and it really focuses the mind. Surfing is an exercize in patience, nuanced observation, and timing. You won’t always get it right, but when you do there’s no better feeling in the world. And that’s just my limited observations of it. I’m told it only gets better. Ive never been more exhausted and happy than after that first day on the water
We woke up the next morning, packed up camp, and headed to Tillamook for waffles with Jarret. After loading up some of the most delicious waffles I’ve ever had, we headed further north to a spot Andrew knew of. We headed out to surf at 2:30 in the evening and barely stopped till just after sunset. Near the end of the day the waves started breaking perfectly, and they were illuminated by the low angled sun. Everything turned golden and it was like we were surfing IN the sunset. Pretty fricken neat if I may say. Actually it was incredible, and one of the best sunsets I’ve experianced. I remember just looking out over my board while paddling out at some point, with the sun catching all the little droplets, and just being in total bliss. After over 6 hours on the water, I was totally exhausted after that. We all caught a last wave back to shore and headed home.
Surfing definitely has a special place in my heart now. Andrew managed to get me addicted after talking about it and then bringing me out to do it. So thanks bud, you opened my eyes to a new obsession. This trip held so many good memories with my best friends in the world. It was filled with sandy hair, sleepy smiles, and unbridled excitement to be out doing things together. That’s what life is all about.
